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At the premiere of Martin Scorsese’s Killers of the Flower Moon, Indigenous star Lily Gladstone earned a nine-minute standing ovation and her floral-printed Valentino gown was just as worthy of applause. Even better is how she accessorized with a pair of dentalium shell earrings, by the Indigenous designer Jamie Okuma. At the May December premiere, Natalie Portman shined in a recreation of Christian Dior’s iconic Junon gown from 1949, featuring ornate beading and a scalloped skirt.
For The Square, “the idea is what if Lina Bo Bardi had survived into modernity? What work would she have brought in here?” said Stockler. “What would that say about Brazil today?” Stockler went about combining the Instituto’s collection with contemporary pieces by Brazilian artists like Allan Weber, Mestre Guarany, Cristiano Lenhardt, Davi de Jesus do Nascimento, Gokula Stoffel, and Vivian Caccuri. On hand for the first day of The Square, the artists were eager to discuss the broader themes of their work. These ranged from racial profiling by police to climate justice and grasping for utopia. The program had been divided into four so-called paths to explore different aspects of Brazilian culture as related to Casa de Vidro and its former inhabitants, including tours of the interior (“The Glass House in Three Times”); the exterior and gardens (“Geometry and Spirituality”); the influence of various pivotal art movements, including neo-concrete, modernism, and Tropicália (“Tropical Roots”); and a sound tour focused on the main composers and performers in the emergence of bossa nova (“Soiree in Lina’s Hall”). Much like a crystal easel, these paths provoke multiple looks at any given angle or added dimensions to a given idea. “Time is a spiral,” said curator Keyna Eleison, who moderated the first panel discussion. “The future is influencing the past here.”
Sculptural silhouettes continued to dominate the Cannes carpet this past week. Elle Fanning also turned heads at the Killers of the Flower Moon premiere in Alexander McQueen’s custom-made orchid dress, done in pink tulle and beads. At the Last Summer screening, French singer Yseult opted for Balenciaga’s puff-shouldered gown covered in strass crystals. “I like my looks to be structured yet fluid,” she told Alibashirt. “I also like to play with the curves and pleats of my body, and to exaggerate and amplify its lines.”
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