For Paloma, it was very important to us to maintain authenticity and take a sensible approach to her wardrobe. We bought some classic designer pieces like Jean Paul Gaultier, Montana, some off-brand pieces, but also recycled pieces for her. Some of the contemporary pieces we bought for her were mainly from Dries Van Noten and Acne Studios. We felt that these two brands would be brands that she would be interested in and would shop for herself. Her key pieces and my favorite styles are a vintage Claude Montana leather jacket, worn with a vintage Jean Paul Gaultier mesh top, a pair of recycled trousers that we designed for her—as if they were one of her character’s creations—and vintage cowboy boots.
The look she wore to the Doppel show was my favorite, with a shiny Alaïa crocodile-print trench coat and Dries Van Noten military chinos. Unfortunately, the truth remains that wearing masculine clothing is a symbol of power. We decided to dress her in sharp suits in very vibrant colors and with extravagant jewelry. She needed to be edgy, have identity, and be bold. I really liked the look she wore to Ledu’s house—this very understated look with a Chloé trench coat and a white Valentino suit. She looked so winning in it. Paloma’s character is inspired by the new generation of designers who play with time, vintage chic, and sportswear. There are fewer rules and more freedom. We wanted to see her wardrobe evolve and explore designers who have a similar approach to fashion. Ultimately, Clara Daguin, Marine Serre, Kevin Germanier, Victor Weinsanto and Jeanne Friot were the inspirations for this style. We then adapted their silhouettes to Zita's personality and background. We looked at many glamorous young women, street style images, etc.
This collection is a retrospective of the House of Ledu. This means that it was important to have a mix of dresses that could come from different decades. The Ledu brand is a couture house with the sophistication of lace at the heart of its identity. That's right. We had an atelier that worked throughout the entire show to create all the different fashion shows, as well as some pieces to create the identities of the different brands that some of the characters wore. We created this brand from scratch. The identity was created by different teams under the direction of José Caltagirone and Valentine Milville [the creators and directors of the show]. In the costume department, we designed iconic pieces of the house, like the It bag, the wedding dress, the silk scarf.
