The only rule is that there’s absolutely no rules. “I’ve covered a bag in safety pins, graffitied them, burnt them, added studs, weighed them down heavily with keychains: to anyone else it probably looks like I’ve ruined the bag but to me it’s what makes them one of a kind and special,” adds Shipton. The personalized bag also subverts status in an interesting way, especially when the item at hand is worth thousands of dollars. That Birkin bag? Or even a Margiela or Balenciaga? It says a lot more, in much more of an interesting way, when it’s tattered up and covered in charms, rosaries and ribbons.
And though this is the kind of trend that’s flourishing on TikTok, the effect is also ever present elsewhere. Take, for example, Junya Watanabe’s spring 2023 bags covered in silver chains and pearl necklaces. The designer Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada has played with bows in a multitude of DIY ways, on bags and, “on collars as ties, on the end of a braid, around my belt, or sometimes on the strap of a tank top. I also love to take a bow through the neckhole of a T-shirt and out the sleeve, or scrunch up the shoulder seam of a t-shirt with one.” Many of the bags she sells under her own label are covered in crystal fringed brooches and bows and have that feeling of someone decorating it themselves.
Trend forecaster Jessica Richards describes the phenomenon as “representative of the ongoing desire of the collective to be recognized for individuality.” Though people have been adding individualistic touches to their clothing for centuries–especially in times when subcultures flourished, like punk in ‘70s this feels slightly different than the past. “We're seeing that many adornments relate to ‘cute culture,’ with a nod to the optimism and feel-good spirit of so many nostalgic trends; we're seeing amulets of protection and safety, like crystals.”
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